Earthquake 190 Years Ago Changed Face of Arkansas


February 16, 2001


Earthquake 190 Years Ago
Changed Face of Arkansas

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By Craig Ogilvie, travel writer
Arkansas Department of Parks and Tourism

The New Madrid Earthquake has become legendary as the worst natural disaster in North America's recorded history. Aftershocks were felt from Boston to the Rockies and from northern Canada to New Orleans.

Yet, the massive quake failed to make major headlines at the time and was almost overlooked by history, perhaps because monetary damages were low and few lives were lost during the series of shocks that lasted from December, 1811 until March, 1812.

It was tagged the "New Madrid" earthquake because the little Missouri riverport was the only settlement near the epicenter. The tremors actually began along the St. Francis River, some 65 miles southwest of New Madrid, in what is now Arkansas. In 1811, both Missouri and Arkansas were part of the Louisiana Territory. Arkansas was placed in Missouri Territory in 1812, when Louisiana became the 18th state to enter the Union.

The region devastated by the quake extended from Crowley's Ridge eastward to the present city of Memphis and northward to near Cairo, Illinois. Stories about the Mississippi River flowing backwards, forests being swallowed up, old lakes disappearing and new ones created within minutes, and the delta land rolling like gigantic ocean waves all contained some truth. However, reports passed along through casual conversation tended to exaggerate things that needed no embellishment.

Scientists now know that the 1811-12 quake was merely a continuation of a series of large tremors that have plagued the same region, every few decades, since the 1600s and long before that. However, for the first time, the New Madrid quake had a few witnesses who could report the events.

The New Orleans, first steamboat to ply the Mississippi, was descending the Ohio River when word reached its crew that strange things were occurring downstream. The boat continued its planned course, even after passengers observed large sections of the bank tear away and plunge into the river. Soon the pilot was unable to follow the main river channel due to the debris and flooding.

When the steamer reached New Madrid, the village was in shambles and some people begged to be taken aboard. Others, apparently more afraid of the bellowing steamboat than the earthquake, ran away as it approached. Primitive log cabins, with their interlocking wall construction, withstood much of the jolting action. Other types of buildings and chimneys did not fare well.

The New Orleans continued downstream, amid the aftershocks, and reached Natchez, Mississippi in early January, 1812. The only problems officially noted were the navigation hazards and changes in the channel.

People on land or in small boats were not so lucky. According to reports, the Mississippi, during the first shock at New Madrid, receded from its banks then returned as a wall of water 15 to 20 feet high. The force snapped trees and flooded lowlands instantly. Eliza Bryan, an eyewitness to this or a similar event, said the river reversed its course at New Madrid only a few minutes. Later the story grew to "several hours" and eventually "several days."

Myron L. Fuller, a geologist writing for the U.S. Geological Survey in 1912, downplayed reports of reversed river flow, explaining that massive fissures in the riverbed undoubtedly caused large waves against the current for short periods of time. This probably occurred at points all along the Mississippi River quake zone. Many islands, from Cairo to Natchez, simply disappeared.

Hundreds of aftershocks followed the December 16 quake, the most violent of which came on February 7, 1812. The tremors then tapered off to a point where residents seemingly accepted them as a part of life.

In 1811, the region affected by the quake was covered by virgin stands of hardwood forests with thick canebrakes along most of the streams. Although damaged by the quake, the timber remained in large tracts until razed to make way for farming in the late 1800s. Agri-business has been "king" of the delta for well over a century.

A number of new lakes in Missouri, Tennessee and Arkansas were created as a result of the quake. In Arkansas they were Big Lake near Manila, Golden Lake near Wilson, Lake St. Francis east of Jonesboro and many others. Reelfoot was the largest of several lakes created in Tennessee and Flag Lake was among those formed in Missouri.

The earthquake raised the ground level in many places on the normally flat delta. But most noticeable were the "sunken lands," where the earth dropped several feet and created instant wetlands and lakes. The regions along the St. Francis River, plus much of the Missouri "bootheel" area were most affected by the quake's land shift.

Ironically, the quake also prompted Congress to open a new legal jurisdiction at Arkansas Post in 1814, because conditions on the Mississippi made travel upriver so difficult. The act helped open Arkansas to more settlers, which paved the way for territorial status in 1819.

Today, much of the "sunken lands" are protected wildlife management areas, managed by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service and the Arkansas Game and Fish Commission. The lakes and wetlands serve as waterfowl preserves along the Mississippi Flyway.

Bass, crappie, catfish and panfish are plentiful in northeast Arkansas lakes and rivers. The current Arkansas state-record largemouth bass (16-pounds, four ounces) was hooked on Mallard Lake (Big Lake Wildlife Management Area) on March 2, 1976 by Aaron Mardis of Memphis.

In addition to fishing and restricted hunting, the management areas also provide excellent opportunities for bird and nature watching. For more information, contact the Arkansas Game and Fish Commission at 1-501-223-6300 or visit their website: www.agfc.com. Several other websites offer historic and seismic data by entering the keywords, "New Madrid Earthquake."

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Submitted by the Arkansas Department of Parks & Tourism
One Capitol Mall, Little Rock, AR 72201, (501) 682-7606
E-mail: [email protected]

May be used without permission. Credit line is appreciated:
"Arkansas Department of Parks & Tourism"

Submitted by the Arkansas Department of Parks & Tourism
One Capitol Mall, Little Rock, AR 72201, 501-682-7606
E-mail: [email protected]

May be used without permission. Credit line is appreciated:
"Arkansas Department of Parks & Tourism"